Dominica

Dominica

Dominica was the last of the Caribbean islands to be colonized by Europeans, due chiefly to the fierce resistance of the native Caribs. France ceded possession to Great Britain in 1763, which made the island a colony in 1805. In 1980, two years after independence, Dominica's fortunes improved when a corrupt and tyrannical administration was replaced by that of Mary Eugenia CHARLES, the first female prime minister in the Caribbean, who remained in office for 15 years. Some 3,000 Carib Indians still living on Dominica are the only pre-Columbian population remaining in the eastern Caribbean. Known as "The Nature Island of the Caribbean" due to its spectacular, lush, and varied flora and fauna, which are protected by an extensive natural park system; the most mountainous of the Lesser Antilles, its volcanic peaks are cones of lava craters and include Boiling Lake, the second-largest, thermally active lake in the world.

My friend Derek van Bever and I visited Dominica in 1993, staying at Castle Comfort Dive Lodge and diving with their operation Dive Dominica. Castle Comfort's accomodations were pretty spartan and they were very stingy with food. The main dish served was "Mountain Chicken", which we ate all week, finding out only near the end of the trip that is was actually frog! It wasn't bad, though. Castle Comfort is quite near a major road, which was noisy enough, and the constant celebration of Dominica's independence day late into every night of our stay resulted in us not getting much sleep on this trip.

Dominica has very good diving, the best for strange critters of anywhere I've been in the Caribbean. Animals that are extremely rare eleswhere are almost common here: flying gurnards, batfish (the little moth-like ones, not the pinatus bats of the Pacific), big nudibranchs (sea hares), frogfish, soapfish, electric rays, box crabs, and much more. Dive Dominica was excellent, most of our dives were just Derek, myself, and Derek the divemaster, who I believe also owned or at least ran the operation. He was very knowleadgable about the local reefs and a laid-back divemaster. The shore diving in front of Castle Comfort was excellent.

Flying Gurnard, Dominica

Flying Gurnard

Batfish, Dominica

Batfish

Derek and I tried out a "DiveLink" underwater communication rig I'd just purchased. It was difficult to be understood through the thing, and generally an intrusion into the otherwise quiet and solitary world of the diver. I eventually sold it on ebay after trying it a few more times.

Here are my dive log entries for the trip:

Dive No. Date Dive Site Max Depth Bottom Time Night? Notes
96 10/31/93 Scott's Head 64 0:53 N D. saw octopus at start, spotted eel, great orange frogfish, big puffer. Nice small wall, very healthy, pink sponges all over. 6 lbs too much. Ben from Sea Saba 12/95 told us he saw a marlin(!) at this site in '94.
97 10/31/93 Coral Gardens 44 1:00 N Anchored in sand, swam to cut in reef & through. Very lush craol meadows. Lots of spotted drum, small morays, trumpets, nice sponges, big school of small fish let me get close. Big peacock flounders, baby flounder in sand. Much ear pain. Sgt. Major eggs.
98 10/31/93 Dive Dominica dock 29 1:04 Y GREAT night dive. 1st test of the Divelink. Drab, boulder-y. Flying gurnard(!), crab under urchin, morays, big cornet, electric eel, huge nudibranchs (mating?), scorpion, arrow crabs, lobster. Derek saw octopus, squid. Drum, soapfish, puers all over.
99 11/1/93 Suburbs 83 0:43 N Atlantic side, using Divelink w/hood. Derek doesn't like the DIvelink. Very nice site w/usual critters. Big spotted eel. Strong current, lots of small fish. 2 Sudafed fixed ears.
100 11/1/93 Point Guignard 56 0:57 N Out to point & back along wall. Nice walls, all the usual stuff. Underweighted @4lbs w/hood.
101 11/1/93 Champagne 44 1:06 Y Nice walls w/coral & bright sponges. Big tiger's paw, basket stars, glimpse of a strange crustacean (mantis shrimp?), huge crab, weird "bristle nose" puffer, cute baby puers, big white starfish. Air goes into hood!
102 11/2/93 Dangelbens Pinnacles 76 0:51 N Cool pinnacle structure w/abundant sponbges & coral. Spotted moray @start, juvenile scorpionfish @end.
103 11/2/93 Rodney's Place 36 1:01 N Sensational structure w/vertical wall fm surface to 40' bottom. Lots of anemones w/shrimp & crabs. Big snapper, spotted moray, held spotted eel. Huge spotted drum, derek & others saw seahorse @end.
104 11/2/93 Dive Dominica dock 62 1:17 Y Another *great* night dive on the world's ugliest reef! At least 10 flying gurnards, (petted them). Electric rays, squid, great hermit crab, "sand morays", swimming spotted morays, baby soapfish, 1st trigger of trip, unspotted cornets, tailstanding cuke!
105 11/3/93 Dive Dominica dock 82 0:49 N Last chance for Divelink. 4" batfish!! on open sand @40'. Not as much life as at night, but not as ugly as I thought. Lots of arrow crabs, morays, sand eel, juv. French angel, false batfish (sponge), failed attempt to dislodge sand eel. Retired DIvelink.
106 11/3/93 Scott's Head 84 0:52 N Spectacular wall, as good as Bloody Bay except for lack of fish. 1st seafans seen on Dominica. Derek found dollar bill. Little gorgonian-camouflaged slender filefish @end. Unusual yellow tube sponges, lots of small fish.
107 11/3/93 Soufriere Pinnacles 36 1:00 N Relaxing, slow dive around pinnacles w/lots of cuts & coarse sand valleys. Friendly golden morays, little hermit on gorgonian, unusual dark brown anemone, pair of slender filefish, cool crab inside anemone. Clouds of sponge or coral spawn.
108 11/4/93 Condo 91 1:01 N Big mount SE of Scott's Head Pt. Lots of overhangs & cutouts. Tons of gorgonians. D. found great scorpionfish. Cute 1" file. Come lobsters, moray. Big spotted sand eel @end. Crab in anemone. Stung by hydroids - ouch!
109 11/4/93 Between Champagne & Guignard Pt. 30 1:20 N "Molest the Sea" dive w/2 Dereks. 3 seahorses, my first. Tormented little white frogfish McNugget™. Derek VB found another nice scorpion. Tremendous variety of corals including big stand of finger.
110 11/4/93 Dive Dominica dock 29 1:28 Y Video light charger fubar. Lost contact lens @start. Big red frogfish, electric rays, D. found cool sponge crab, long intimate encounter w/big squid & his friend, batfish (same as #105), writhing eel, 1 gurnard, cornet, many soaps, small sea hare, lobster
111 11/5/93 Dive Dominica dock 24 1:37 N Frogfish from #110 in same spot. Others saw batfish. Baby scorpion on sponge, 1-eyed gurnard, dying moray. Marvin the vet snorkling. D. video'd much of dive. Dug up & held tiny box crab. Others saw seahorse. Big scorpion in weeds & rocks, & more.

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