St. Lucia

St. Lucia is a beautiful volcanic island at the easternmost edge of the Caribbean, Its windward side is too rough for diving but the leeward side is quite protected. There are not a whole lot of dive sites, and the reef in front of the resort I stayed at on all three of my visits to St. Lucia, Anse Chastanet Resort, is one of the best, if not the best, the island has to offer.

Anse Chastanet is one of the nicest resorts I've ever stayed at. The rooms are large, elegant, airy and have spectacular views, particularly those at the top of the mountain whose side the resort climbs. The food is excellent and the beach delightful.

As usual in those days, I was accompanied on all three trips to St. Lucia by my friend Derek van Bever. On our first trip, in 1992, it was just the two of us; on the second and third we had families along. We both took our PADI "Advanced Open Water" certification courses there on the first trip, and had a great time diving there. Our divemaster/instructor was a woman who was in Derek's class at Brandywine High School in Wilmington, DE! I couldn't dive during our second trip there due to a recently-broken leg. On the third trip, in 1998, we were disgusted by the hordes of tourist divers coming down from other resorts farther north (can you say "cruise ships"?) resulting in incessant boat noise during dives as well as the Scuba St. Lucia's unreasonably restrictive policies. At this point Derek and I were both quite experienced divers with nearly 200 dives each, yet the divemasters freaked every time we got more than 10 feet from the group - and this in 30 feet of water 30 yards offshore! They were also very stingy with bottom time - I "finished" one dive with 1,700 PSI of air in my tank and don't think I ended with less than 1,200 the whole trip. We were rushed out of the water on every dive, including a night dive where we'd just found a tame and playful octopus. As much as I love Anse Chastanet I swore after that trip never to dive with them again. I like freedom while diving.

Marine life was fairly plentiful and interesting, I saw a "black brotula" fish there for the first and only time of my diving career. There were no large animals of any kind, however; probably fished out. Superman's flight, so named because a scene from Superman was filmed nearby, is a fun drift dive a short boat ride from Anse Chastanet. Onshore there are some nice rain forest hikes.

I've heard terrible stories about St. Lucia in recent years. The waters around the island are frequented by sperm whales, still hunted by Japanese factory boats. The St. Lucian government granted permission to the Japanese to hunt the whales in return for thousands of used cars and trucks which were then sold to St. Lucians for a pittance, resulting in horrendous traffic congestion on the once idyllic island. Way to go, guys.

Here are my dive log entries for the 1992 trip:

Dive No. Date Dive Site Max Depth Bottom Time Night? Notes
66 11/18/92 Anse Chastenet Reef 30 0:32 N Checkout dive w/Lisa DiSabatino of Wilmington! Boulder-y reef, lots of staghorn in good condition, nice variety of fish. Big school of squid allowed us to get close. Big yellow Frogfish!!!
67 11/18/92 Lesleen M. wreck 52 0:46 N Good growth, lots of arrow crabs & very aggressive damsels. Others saw frogfish.
68 11/18/92 Beehive Reef 30 0:41 N Big rocks, lots of staghorn, good variety of sponges, some sponges full of staghorn! Derek found small moray, nice big drum.
69 11/19/92 Superman's Flight 76 0:44 N Drift dive around the base of the small Piton. Beautiful reef/wall w/lush sponges & gorgonians. Small fish. Fast drift - no time to stop & look! Video'd w/Sony loaner rig. Derek found great purple flounder.
70 11/19/92 The Pinnacles 65 0:55 N 1st dive of Advanced course. Cool bommies, tons of coral & sponges of all types. Fat puffer, juvenile French angel, green gorgonians. Fish trap at end.
71 11/19/92 Anse Chastenet Reef 37 1:17 Y Night dive of AOW course. Most triumphant night dive yet! Squid, lobster, slipper lobster, basket stars, open coral including fuzzy white brain, morays, strange red/white lobster, the St. Lucian "Thing", worms, & a cave! Derek fails compass nav!
72 11/20/92 Coral Garden 138 0:54 N "Multi-Level" dive of AOW course. Nothing @130', drab @80', nicer up shallow. Small moray, drum, sponge crabs inside purple vase, great turtle at end.
73 11/20/92 Grand Caille 57 0:51 N "Naturalist" AOW dive. Big wall, great pair of juvenile French angels, large-ish bristle worm, others released a slipper lobster from trap, Ponti played w/urchin.
74 11/21/92 Anse Chastenet Reef 72 1:05 N "Deep" AOW dive. Big schools of small fish, couple of spotted morays, one hanging out w/huge yellowtail. Friendly Sgt. Majors, vidoe'd frogfish, cute blennies up shallow, lots of ballyhoo. Derek spotted (yet another) big flounder.
75 11/21/92 Anse Chastenet Reef 57 0:51 N "Navigation" AOW dive. Measured 100' line (26 kicks/100PSI) square & triangle, then reef tour to visit frogfish again.
76 11/21/92 Turtle Reef 53 1:06 N 1st dive as AOW diver! OK reef, took silly video, released grouper & trigger from net. Video'd squid, cool spotted snake eel & box crab in sand at end. Frogfish 1 mo' time.

and here are the log entries of the 1998 expedition:

Dive No. Date Dive Site Max Depth Bottom Time Night? Notes
194 3/1/98 Anse Chastanet Reef 45 0:20 N Checkout dive from beach. Derek immediately spotted a 2" flounder, divemaster pointed out black seahorse on stick in 14' of water
195 3/1/98 Coral Garden 51 0:50 N Drift dive, lots of spnges, crinoids, fans, damsels. Woke up a little puer, nice green disc corals. 12" mackerel, viz better than #194, about 60-80'
196 3/1/98 Turtle Reef 54 0:47 N Circled around big rocky reef just off Anse Chastanet. Huge school of chromis, big lobster, cool arrow crabs & shrimp on curlycue anemones, filefish, big snapper, humongous conch, big scorpion w/pretty pecs.
197 3/2/98 Malgre Toute 66 0:52 N Beautiful drift dive past sloping wall. Chain morays, tiny cube juvenile box; small cudas; octopus' lair w/shells, but no octopus; big bright lime green tube sponges on which were tiny (1") juvenile scorpionfish (?) 2'x3' patch of healthy disc coral; Spotted drum, lots of arrow crabs on orange crinoids; yellow trumpets; massive schools of chromis & creole wrasses; profuse tubeworms & feather dusters in nice purple & yellow. 82° water temp.
198 3/2/98 Trou Diable 35 0:46 N Cool dive in shallow water near shore (cliff). Los of surge, 2 squid, big bristleworms, tons of Sgt. Major eggs, blue-spotted damsels, barred hamlets, gold-spotted moray; nice purple wrasse. 1st time in water w/Ellen, who was getting training fm Ponti. Frustrating to have to end five w/1700 PSI!
199 3/3/98 Jalousie 126 0:50 N Uneventful dive w/D & Ellen. Sloping wall at base of Gros Piton, usual St. Lucia stuff: big arrowcrabs in crinoids; lots of spawning Sgt. Majors; big balled-up basket star; group of 4 3-inch squid @9' @end. Heavy wind on surface. Getting fed up w/being rushed through dive by divemasters, have yet to finish w/less than 1200 PSI.
200 3/3/98 Fairyland 62 0:48 N Nice site, but w/boat traffic like diving in an airport. Around the end of Grand Caille, pasyt Anse Chast. reef. Plateau @50'. Lots o' fish, big trumpet under bush, nice peacock flounder, big pretty bristleworms, cute 2" spotted drum. Callistus of the annoying buzzer, D.M. Ratted out guy fishing from shore by the snorkeling cave, marine park police hauled 'em off. Boatloads of obnoxious cruise shipsters invade Anse Chast.
201 3/3/98 Anse Chastanet Reef 35 1:06 Y Fantastic night dive w/Rickmund. Soapfish, spiny lobsters, many snowflake morays, amazingly close encounters w/tame squids, big coral banded shrimp, 2 slipper lobsters, nice octopus out on gravel bottom, hung out a little before oozing back into his hole; a few scorpionfish, big peacock flounder; big spotted snake eel writhing (feeding?); really tiny spotted drum (1-1/2"); big reef crab
202 3/4/98 Lesleen M. Wreck 69 0:46 N Went solo, D. on waterfall hike w/Ellen & Garance. Did brief tour around base of wreck, checking out hole-digging jawfish in sand. Went inshore into vast meadows of grass, inhabited by endless huge clouds of fry of all sizes, from barely visible to 1". So abundant the water was milky with them. Only other inhabitant was a sand snake eel poking its head out. On the way back to the boat I spotted a gorgeous gurnard @50', chased it around a couple of minutes to see it spread its wings.
203 3/4/98 Pinnacles 65 1:05 N Great site, number of big bommies teeming w/fish life. Big lobster under ledge, many coral banded shrimp, carpet anemone(!) w/squat anemone shrimp (look like harlequin) about 1/2"-1". Nice meatallic orange spotted hamlet, snowflake moray, gorgeous gold-spotted moray pointed out by Callistus at end. Buddied w/Andy (photog) who got D.M. to let us go in 1st onto pinnacles while others did longer tour so we got more time at good spot.
204 3/5/98 Piton Wall 120 0:53 N Went deep w/Ponti, but constant boat traffic annoying even at 100'+. Predominantly plate coral slope, big lobster, small (5") trumpet, baby (2") filefish. Best part of dive was @end, with big coral heads going nearly to surface. Couple of scrawled files & lots of chub there. School of smallish jacks cruised by at 90'. Many many schooling fish midwater. Oakley shades disappeared mysteriously from boat.
205 3/5/98 Anse Chastanet Reef 34 0:52 N Afternoon shore dive w/D & Callistus in lieu of boat dive. Seahorse; big jacks; beautiful jawfish, about 4 of them; huge needlefish; Callistus thought he may have found "The Thing" in about the same spot I saw the octopus on #201
206 3/5/98 Anse Chastanet Reef 34 0:55 Y Night dive w/D & divemistress Gundi. Snake eel & electric ray in sand on way out, then Gundi pointed out a new fish - the Black Brotula! Beautiful undulating finnage, lives in caves. Reef crabs all over, then uneventful until @end, she found an octopus, who was quite unafraid and willing to be observed up close an dat length. Unfortunately, time was up, and she made us leave... $#^!!%$#!!!
207 3/6/98 Superman's Flight 118 0:53 N Fun drift in super panoramavision. Starts w/vast wall covered w/profuse coral, sponges, fans, etc., then around a sheer wall covered w/fans, then hilly meadows of staghorn. 4" reef scorpionfish (very yellow) feeding @90'.
208 3/6/98 Turtle Reef 55 0:48 N Wanted to poke around sand at edge of reef, hassled by German divemaster to hurry up and stay w/group etc. Attacked by rabid damselfish defending his turf! Nice pair of French angels, a few scorpions, lots of bristleworms, jawfish briefly at end before being rushed back to surface. Yuck.
209 3/7/98 Lesleen M. Wreck 64 0:49 N Spent most of time in sande & coral rubble on North side of wreck. Big piles of shells & stuff, lots of burrowing critters. Many spotted jawfish & 1 yellow-head. Ultr-cool mantis shrimp! Big school of 1' 'cuda, beefy snowflake eel on wreck.

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